Part II - South Island

Motueka/ Kaiteriteri (Two and a half hours drive from Picton ferry port)

After our ferry crossing, we headed North towards the Abel Tasman National Park. Before we got there, however, we decided to take a day to explore around the town of Motueka and the neighbouring beach resort of Kaiteriteri. Motueku has a thriving cafe culture and is reached via a stunning drive through the vineyards, fruit farms and rolling hills of Nelson. It is worth spending a few hours in Motueka itself to explore some of the cafes and galleries nearby before heading on to Kaiteriteri. This little town has a real laid-back vibe and is a great place to kick back and relax while sunning yourself on the golden sand. After a hectic few days in the North Island we found this to be a great destination to catch our breath.

Abel Tasman National Park (45 minute drive from Kaiteriteri)

Next stop on our tour was Abel Tasman National Park, just a short drive up the north west coast of the South Island. Before you set off, if you want to avoid sounding like hopeless tourists, I will warn you that it is Abel (rhymes with table) rather than Abel (rhymes with babble). I point this out as it was only right at the end of our time here that one 'helpful' local pointed out that 'you guys do know that's not how you say it, right?'.

Anyway, we had done a bit of research ourselves before leaving and had decided that the best way to explore the park was by kayak. There is an option to have a floating tour guide but, as we tended to do throughout the trip, we opted for the freedom of going it alone. Having booked our kayak the day before, we arrived at our hire company bright and early in order to eke out as many hours paddling and sun-bathing as we could. A 45 minute 'safety' briefing and bumpy ride to the beach later and we finally embarked on our voyage. We lucked out once again with the weather and with the sun shining the Abel Tasman bay looked truly magnificent.

The day started with a long paddle to see the seal colonies, who hang out on the rocky islands opposite the bay. During the time we visited, we were lucky enough to see several seal pups around the islands and these guys proved really playful and great fun to watch and photograph (taking extra care not to capsize with camera in hand). We then headed back towards the shoreline and spent the rest of the day exploring the hidden beaches and golden coves of Abel Tasman. The day flew by and before we knew it we were kayaking back at full speed to catch our transport back to base.

The beaches we found whilst kayaking were definitely the best we experienced in NZ. Throw in the seals, the sun and the sea and it is an experience not to be missed. A word of warning though: kayaking is surprisingly hard work and the tide comes in quite quickly so, unlike us, try not to let your boat start floating off while you're not watching!

West Coast

Nestled between the Southern Alps and the wild Tasman Sea, the West Coast of the South Island is perhaps the most rugged stretch of coastline and, according to many, one of the most beautiful. In fact, the route was recently voted by Lonely Planet as one of the most scenic coastal drives in the world. Unfortunately, during our time driving the West Coast, we experienced all of the ruggedness and none of the scenery, as we were battered by torrential rain and dense fog which meant that our main focus was avoiding an unwanted self-guided tour of the bottom of the Tasman Sea.

Joking aside, we decided to make the most of our time regardless of the weather and though we spent less time here than we might otherwise have, when we did brave the conditions we had a great time. Our first stop was in Westport where we had a quick tour of some of the local shops before settling down for lunch and a steaming mug of coffee to warm us up. On the advice of a very helpful local, we then headed down towards a secluded local beach where we were told we would get the feel of a typical West Coast beach. The beach was (unsurprisingly) deserted when we arrived but with the rain coming down horizontally, the waves crashing against the beach and the wind howling, we found ourselves drawn to the isolation and character of the beach in a way we hadn't expected.

Our next step was the famous Punakaiki Pancake Rocks which we had heard so much about. Visibility was low and the tide was out and perhaps this contributed to us feeling slightly underwhelmed by this stop. By New Zealand standards, this place felt a bit touristy and we whizzed round in 20 minutes before jumping back in our camper van to head towards Greymouth where we could camp for the evening before heading on to the Fox Glacier.

Fox Glacier (2.5 hour drive from Greymouth)

NZ's glaciers are spectacular and long before we had left home, we had decided that visiting one of these giant rivers of ice was a 'must-do' during our trip. We did a bit of research and when we found out you could not only take a look at a glacier but take a helicopter ride (!) which landed and dropped you off on the ice (!) before you embark on a 2 hour hike in full ice-trekking gear (!!) we were even more excited for the experience. We had been advised to leave booking until the last minute, so we left it until the day before to book our heli-hike, having checked the forecasts were clear. With our trip booked we woke up early and drove the short distance from Greymouth to the Fox Glacier Township where we could pick up our gear and catch our chopper.

New Zealand, sadly, had other ideas...

Selfishly, and with no regard to our carefully laid travel plans, the sun did not shine that morning and sent in its place dense fog and unrelenting rain which meant that no helicopters left the ground that day. "... but isn't the Fox Glacier in the middle of a rainforest" I hear you cry. Well, yes, so I guess you can expect the odd drop here and there (178 days a year on average) but this time it had taken everyone by surprise and this is something to bear in mind if you are on a super-tight schedule. Luckily, we had a contingency plan and so we drove to nearby Franz Joseph Glacier where we managed a short hike before heading to the nearby hot pools. This was an enjoyable fall-back option and we spent the remainder of the day jumping between the three outdoor pools.

The next day we had better luck. The clouds parted and we had lift off. The helicopter ride was an experience in itself and something we were both able to tick off our bucket lists. Having arrived on our ice-carved helipad, we strapped on our crampons and set off on an adrenaline-fueled hike. Our guide carved out foot holes with his pickaxe to help us traverse some of the steeper sections and we had the opportunity to have fun with some ice caves. The guides were very informative and made sure we gave the crevasses and mulins a wide berth! After a few hours we caught our chopper back to terra firma and reflected on a great morning's work. We cooked ourselves some lunch in our camper and set off in the direction of Wanaka.

Wanaka (3 hour drive from Fox Glacier)

Before I get on to Wanaka, I have to briefly mention the journey to get there. In a holiday of great drives, this particular stretch was right up there. The route from glacier country to Wanaka takes you on a fabulous road which meanders through Mount Aspiring National Park. This is one of those journeys where you will have to allow twice as long as the sat-nav suggests as you will be wanting to pull over and take in the scenery around every corner! The sun was shining when we were driving through and after days of rainy/cloudy/foggy weather this felt like the reward. The snow-capped Mt Aspiring is the centerpiece to an incredible landscape with glacial rivers and towering pines combining to provide a background which will require #nofilter. If, like us, you haven't set aside a whole day to explore Mt. Aspiring, we would definitely recommend taking it slow and just pulling over along the route and exploring. We found one of our favourite spots in the whole of NZ here having hopped over a motorway barrier, down a bank and along a stream, eventually coming out near the river with no-one else around as far as the eye could see.

The next day we drove the short distance to Wanaka and spent the morning drinking coffee, enjoying a lavish brunch and strolling along the lakefront. Wanaka is a great place to chill out and so we did. We soon got restless, however, and so after a bit of debate we decided to go for an afternoon hike. We had heard a lot about Roy's Peak, but after discovering it was quite a challenging walk we decided to go for the less challenging climb up Mount Iron, which we had heard was a little less challenging but with equally great views at the top. True to form, it was a scorching day when Mount Iron we decided to go for a hike and although the easier of the two hikes we had considered, the walk up  was still enough to get the blood pumping. We managed to get to the top and were rewarded with great views over Lake Wanaka and the surrounding mountains of Mt. Aspiring. After pausing for a while to take in the views and take a few snaps, we then started our descent which we completed in super quick time ready to head to the supermarket to stock up on BBQ essentials for our second BBQ of the trip! When in New Zealand...

Our campsite was right on the lake front, 10 minutes past Wanaka town, and for a really reasonable price so we would definitely recommend it! They also have a huge wood-burning BBQ which is free to use for all guests.

Queenstown (1 hour drive from Wanaka)

We arrived in Queenstown mid-morning and after rustling up some lunch we headed straight into town to get our bearings and have a little explore. The town is situated on the shore of the beautiful Lake Wakatipu; the longest lake in New Zealand. Queenstown is the archetypal metropolitan town of New Zealand, with its countless cafes, restaurants, bars and shops. Queenstown is a great place to catch your breath and we'd recommend having a day to explore and get lost here. We spent our first day walking along the lakeshore, watching the street performers and eating various culinary delights. One must-do in Queenstown is to sample a world-renowned 'Ferg Burger'. If you can’t find it, follow the crowd! I am a burger fanatic and this is definitely not one to be missed.

Queenstown is also a great destination for nightlife and we treated ourselves to a rare night out! There are plenty of cool bars and clubs in the area and we had a great evening on our own mini Queenstown bar-crawl before stumbling back to our campsite!

Queenstown is known as the adventure capital of NZ and there are indeed a plethora of activities to get involved in: skydiving, bungee jumps or a spot of white-water rafting (or in some cases all three!). One thing to bear in mind however is that, with the knowledge that tourists and kiwis alike flock to Queenstown for these sorts of activities, there’s often another couple of hundred dollars added on to the price for good measure. If, like us, you are on a tight budget we would recommend weighing up your options for where is best to do this stuff as there are a number of other great places to do extreme activities in NZ, often at a fraction of the cost! One great activity to enjoy in Queenstown, and one which won't break the bank, is luging. If you haven't heard of it, it is essentially a downhill tobogganing race without the snow... and it’s great. The cable car up to the luge track offers great views of Queenstown and this is also a great activity to have up your sleeve for a rainy day.

Another activity which we had been planning since first deciding on NZ was a trip to Milford Sound. Milford Sound is part of the epic Fjordland National Park and is yet another must-see. The only difficulty with Milford is its remoteness and unless you fancy the 6 hour round drive, we would thoroughly recommend putting your feet up on a Coach-Cruise-Coach trip. The scenery on the drive up to the Sound is pretty spectacular in itself and the coach journey offers you the opportunity to take it all in which, if you're the only driver, is a rare luxury! Once you arrive you hop straight on your boat and enjoy a two hour cruise like no other. Descriptions don't do the trip justice, so all I will say is that it is not to be missed. If you're lucky you might even get to see some dolphins!

Lake Pukaki (2.5 hours from Queenstown)

When you picture the South Island's lake district you imagine picture-perfect bright blue lakes dwarfed by snow-capped mountains. Although you might not know it, that scene you are picturing is Lake Pukaki and it is every bit as amazing as you imagine. Pukaki is a two and a half hour drive from Queenstown and involves passing through the dramatic Lindis Pass; a mountain drive full of stunning scenery and sweeping bends.

When you are approaching Pukaki for the first time, keep driving until you reach a long rectangular car park. Park up and spend some time simply drinking in the scenery. What you will see is a lake which is a shade of blue I didn't believe existed outside of Instagram, with a backdrop of the formidable Mount Cook. The lake’s almost-luminous shade of blue is attributable to its geography. Pukaki is a glacial lake which is fed by the Tasman and Hooker glaciers and the glacial flour which is deposited in the lake reflects blue light, resulting in the electric blue colour which has caught the imagination of travellers for generations.

The scenery really is the main attraction at Lake Pukaki. We would recommend spending some time walking or cycling around the outside of the lake. There are some great photo opportunities and it’s a truly beautiful walk. Also, for the brave among you, Pukaki is an excellent spot to engage in some skinny dipping (weather permitting). There is nothing which gets you closer to nature than stripping off and taking a dip in the crystal clear waters of Pukaki!

Mount Cook Village (30 minutes from Lake Pukaki)

Standing at 3,754m, Mount Cook is the highest peak in Australasia and is the crowning glory of New Zealand's Southern Alps. But you don't have to be a mountaineering expert to experience the splendour of Mount Cook. At the foot of the mountain is Mount Cook Village; a picturesque mountain village with a great campsite, an amazing visitor centre and a number of easy-going alpine walks which allow you to get a feel of the Mt Cook area for part-time trampers (like ourselves). Our favourite was the Hooker Valley track which takes you past glaciers, over several picturesque swing-bridges and finishes at the terminus of the Hooker glacier where you can sit back and enjoy spectacular views of Mt Cook. The walk takes about 3 hours in total and is suitable for everyone!.For the more experienced climbers out there, the hike to the Mueller hut is said to have fantastic views but a challenging ascent.

One of our favourite aspects of Mount Cook was the drive to get there. While this may seem counter-intuitive, the winding lakeside road is spectacular and will once again have you stopping time and time again to take photos. While you're in Mount Cook village, make sure you make time to check out the visitor centre. The centre is worth a visit purely for its sleek contemporary design but if you have time, it’s always great to stay a little longer and learn more about the geography, nature and history of the area. There is also a book of commemoration which provides a sobering reminder of the mountain's danger.

Tekapo (one hour from Mt Cook Village)

The next stop on our trip was the picturesque Lake Tekapo, which is a one hour drive North of Pukaki. While this lake may not quite have the same magnetic blue colouring of Lake Pukaki, the quaint town which sits on the lake’s edge is well worth a visit. There are a number of traditional pubs and cafes to visit and the Church of the Good Shepherd on the lake's southern tip is the area's crowning glory. The small stone church is perched on the top of a hill, with the southern Alps and Lake Tekapo providing a stunning backdrop.

The small village of Tekapo, however, has another claim to fame. The village is in the centre of the Southern Hemisphere's only International Dark Sky Reserve. Given the extremely low level of light pollution in this area (i.e. it's in the middle of nowhere), this area is world-renowned for providing amazingly clear night skies with uninterrupted views of the Milky Way and stars as far as the eye can see. What's more if you're lucky, you might even get a glimpse of the Southern Lights.

Coming from the UK, we were used to seeing a handful of stars on a clear night, so to see every inch of sky covered with twinkling stars was an experience we'll never forget. It is beautiful and if you get the angle right (and have the requisite photography skills) you can get an iconic shot of the Church of the Good Shepherd silhouetted against the Milky Way. Alternatively, many flock to the Mt John Observatory which offers stunning 360-degree vistas.

Random Campsite (unknown distance from everywhere)

Sad to be leaving the Mackenzie District which had given us so much enjoyment, we hit the road again, meandering in the general direction of Christchurch which was to be our final destination. Having left Tekapo in the late afternoon we set about finding a campsite on the way to Christchurch. We did some research and managed to find a free camping site which had great reviews so we decided to give it a go. Now when I describe it as being rural for New Zealand that should give you an idea about just how in the middle of nowhere this campsite was. Having taken a turn off the main road we embarked on a 40 minute detour which entailed crossing fords, giving our van’s suspension a full test on bumpy gravel tracks and negotiating flocks of sheep in the road. Eventually we arrived and were rewarded with an unbelievable sunset. The site is well worth a recommendation... but I have no idea where we ended up. So if you want to go, you will have to discover it yourself!   

Windwhistle

The next day we headed to Lake Colleridge to attempt a hike we had been recommended. The walk took us up Peak Hill and promised great panoramic views of the lake and the surrounding Southern Alps. You can drive right up to the bottom of the walk and leave your camper there. But don't be fooled by the first 20 minutes of wandering through Shire-esque cabbage fields. The walk is a steep uphill climb which will require you to scramble up some parts on all fours. After 45 minutes of steep incline you reach a ridge from which you can glimpse your first sight of the stunning views. When you eventually reach the summit you won't be disappointed and it's a great place to take a well-earned break! Beware though, as you are up in the clouds, the weather can change very quickly, and the steep bank of the hill would likely prove treacherous in the rain!

Not far from Lake Colleridge is the small hamlet of Windwhistle, which is a great place to stay for a night while you're passin. It is named for being the wind tunnel of the South Island and, true to form, the winds got a little bit tasty during the night (leading to a panicked midnight repositioning of the camper away from the cliff edge!). Aside from the wind, it's also got some great riverside walks and, if you're a fisherman, there's some great salmon fishing to be done.

Arthur's Pass (hour and a half drive from Windwhistle)

Another great day trip in the vicinity of Christchurch is Arthur's Pass. Confusingly, Arthur's Pass is sometime used to refer to the majestic trans-alpine route, sometimes to the nearby national park, and SOMETIMES to the small township nestled in the mountains. Credit therefore must go to the man himself, Arthur Dudley Dobson, the pioneering surveyor and explorer who, having declared the suitability of the route, oversaw the creation of the Arthur's Pass road. Clearly satisfied with his work, the people of New Zealand went on to name the National Park and township in his honour (hence the confusion).

Anyway... the Arthur's Pass area (AP) (sorry Arthur) is a great spot for adventuring. Head straight to the AP township, park up, and work out which cracking walk you want to go on first! One we'd definitely recommend is the short walk up to the somewhat ominously named Devil's Punchbowl waterfall. After a short 20 minute walk you arrive at the viewing spot which affords a pleasant enough view of the impressive waterfall. However, the most impressive thing about any large waterfall is the raw, natural power of Mother Nature and this, in our experience, is not something which can be appreciated from afar. For the intrepid explorers among you, we recommend heading back a few meters to the point where the boardwalk forks left to the viewing platform. If you look right at this point you should be able to make out a lightly trodden path through the shrubbery and rocks. Follow this path for a few minutes and you will find yourself up close and personal with the base of the waterfall, right in Satan's punchbowl itself. Observed from below, the waterfall is even more impressive and an experience not to be missed.

NB. Bring a raincoat because the spray from the waterfall will drench you!

Christchurch

Our final stop was Christchurch where we bid farewell to our beloved campervan and completed our non-stop tour of NZ.

We hope you enjoyed the blog!